Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
